Programming Your Ham Radio: Cables, CHIRP & Repeaters (2026)

For a UV-5R or BF-F8HP Pro, get the BTECH PC03. FT-65R owners need the SCU-35; FT-70DR and TD-H3 owners may need nothing extra.

Last reviewed: August 7, 2026

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Find the right programming setup

For Yaesu FT-65R

Yaesu SCU-35

Buy the cable Yaesu actually specifies for PC programming the FT-65R.

  • Official FT-65R programming cable
  • Works with Yaesu’s own memory programmer
  • Limitation: model-specific, so don’t buy it expecting one cable for every radio
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Don’t Buy a Cable Yet

FT-70DR / TIDRADIO TD-H3

These radios already have direct programming routes, so check what came in the box before spending anything.

  • FT-70DR: Yaesu ADMS-10 uses the supplied USB cable
  • TD-H3: USB-C, Bluetooth/Odmaster and CHIRP options
  • Limitation: setup differs by radio and software; USB-C charging alone never guarantees programming support

Which cable and software does your radio need?

Swipe → to see the full comparison

Radio Connection Recommended software Extra cable? Best path Action
Baofeng UV-5R K1 two-pin CHIRP Yes BTECH PC03 Current price →
Baofeng BF-F8HP Pro K1 two-pin CHIRP Yes BTECH PC03 Current price →
Yaesu FT-65R SCU-35 Yaesu Memory Programmer / CHIRP Yes Official Yaesu cable Current price →
Yaesu FT-70DR Supplied USB cable Yaesu ADMS-10 No, if you have it Use supplied cable Yaesu support →
TIDRADIO TD-H3 USB-C / Bluetooth CHIRP / Odmaster / CPS Usually no Try direct programming first Check support →

Before buying anything, check these three things

1. Exact radio model A cable that works on a UV-5R is not automatically correct for a Yaesu, Icom or even every other Baofeng-family radio.
2. The computer end of the cable USB-A and USB-C versions of the PC03 do the same job at the radio. Choose the one that plugs directly into the computer you actually use.
3. Whether your radio already programs over USB Some newer radios have a direct data connection. Others have USB-C only for charging. Check the manual before buying another cable.

The programming options in detail

For common Baofeng and BTECH handhelds

1. BTECH PC03 FTDI Programming Cable

If you own a UV-5R, BF-F8HP Pro or another compatible radio using the common Kenwood-style K1 two-pin connection, the PC03 is the cable I would buy rather than gambling on the cheapest anonymous cable available. The important part is not the plastic around the plug — it is the USB interface chipset and reliable driver support.

BTECH uses an FTDI chipset in the PC03 and sells both USB-A and USB-C computer-side versions. The radio side remains the same K1 two-pin connection, so choose between USB-A and USB-C based on your computer, not your radio. Current CHIRP supports both the UV-5R and BF-F8HP Pro.

This recommendation is really about eliminating troubleshooting variables. A cheap clone cable can leave a beginner wondering whether the problem is CHIRP, Windows, the driver, the COM port, the radio or the cable itself. A known cable removes one of those unknowns immediately.

One physical detail matters: push both plugs completely into the radio. A partially seated two-pin connector is one of the simplest reasons a perfectly good programming setup appears dead.

Best for: UV-5R, BF-F8HP Pro and other explicitly compatible K1 two-pin radios.

Skip it if: your radio uses a different physical interface or supports direct USB data programming.

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For Yaesu FT-65R

2. Yaesu SCU-35 Programming Cable

The FT-65R is exactly why I do not like calling programming cables “universal.” Yaesu specifies the SCU-35 for PC programming this radio and separately lists the SCU-36 as the transceiver-to-transceiver cloning cable. They are not the same job.

With the SCU-35, you can use Yaesu’s FT-65R memory-programming software. CHIRP also currently lists the FT-65R as supported, giving you another useful route if you prefer keeping multiple radios in one programming environment.

The disadvantage is obvious: this is a more specific purchase than a K1-family cable. If you replace your FT-65R with a completely different radio later, the SCU-35 may not follow you. But buying the correct manufacturer-specified cable once is preferable to accumulating adapters and mystery cables while trying to save a few dollars.

If you have not yet chosen the radio itself, our beginner handheld radio guide compares the FT-65R with other first-radio paths.

Best for: FT-65R owners who want straightforward PC memory programming.

Skip it if: you own an FT-70DR — that radio has a different programming path.

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Save your money first

3. FT-70DR and TD-H3: you may already have what you need

A buyer guide should occasionally tell you not to buy anything. The FT-70DR is a good example. Yaesu’s ADMS-10 programming software is designed to communicate through the USB cable supplied with the FT-70DR, so if that cable is still in your box there is no reason to order an SCU-35 just because you saw it recommended for another Yaesu.

Yaesu’s official ADMS-10 route is Windows-based and has its own connection sequence. One particularly important instruction is to read the radio’s data into ADMS-10 before editing and sending data back. That same “read first” habit is valuable when using CHIRP.

The TIDRADIO TD-H3 takes another route again. It supports direct USB-C programming, Bluetooth programming through Odmaster and CHIRP/CPS options. If you already have a data-capable USB-C cable or the cable supplied with your package, try that before buying a traditional two-pin programmer.

This is why the radio model must come before the cable recommendation. There is no single programming cable I would tell every new ham to buy.

Best for: anyone who owns a modern radio with an included or direct data connection.

Limitation: manufacturer software and setup procedures differ, so follow the exact instructions for your radio rather than another model’s tutorial.

Check Current CHIRP Support →

How to program a ham radio with CHIRP

Once the correct cable is connected, the programming process is much less mysterious than it first appears. The safest habit is to read the radio before you write anything to it. That gives CHIRP the correct radio-specific image and gives you a backup before making changes.

  1. Download the current CHIRP-next build. Do not start with an old copy from a random download site or a CD bundled with a cable. Use the current version from the official CHIRP project.
  2. Confirm that your exact radio model is supported. “Baofeng” or “Yaesu” is not specific enough. Check the exact model in CHIRP’s supported-radio list before assuming a cable problem.
  3. Connect the radio and select the correct port. Plug the cable fully into the radio, connect it to the computer and note which serial/COM port appears. Then select the correct manufacturer and radio model in CHIRP.
  4. Choose Radio → Download From Radio first. Let CHIRP read the existing memories and radio-specific configuration. If your model requires a clone sequence, follow the instructions CHIRP displays for that exact radio.
  5. Save a clean backup before editing. A filename such as FT65R-original-2026-08-07.img makes it obvious which file contains the untouched starting configuration.
  6. Import your local repeaters. Use CHIRP’s data-source tools or compatible RepeaterBook data instead of typing every frequency, offset and tone manually.
  7. Review the important fields. Check frequency, duplex direction, offset and access tone against the repeater information before writing the memories to the radio.
  8. Upload the edited image back to the radio. For clone-mode radios, choose Radio → Upload To Radio and follow the model-specific sequence without disconnecting the cable or removing power during the transfer.
Important: Do not open a random CSV file and try to write it straight into the radio. With CHIRP, read/open the target radio first and then import the memories into that radio-specific image.

Get CHIRP only from the official CHIRP download page , and check the current supported-radio list before buying hardware specifically for CHIRP.

Stop typing repeaters one by one

Once the cable works, the next mistake is spending an evening manually entering dozens of local repeaters. RepeaterBook and CHIRP can remove much of that work.

Search for repeaters around your location, filter down to the bands and modes your radio actually supports, then import the useful results into your radio’s CHIRP image. Do not automatically fill every memory channel with every repeater in a huge radius. A shorter list of repeaters you may actually use is easier to scan and understand.

Repeater databases can change, so check important entries against the repeater operator or local club information when possible.

Search RepeaterBook →

The repeater settings that actually matter

Frequency The repeater frequency you listen to. This is normally the value people mean when they tell you “the repeater is on 146.xxx” or “444.xxx.”
Duplex Tells the radio whether its transmit frequency is above or below the receive frequency. In CHIRP you will commonly see + or .
Offset The amount by which the transmit frequency differs from the receive frequency. Do not guess it because another repeater used the same value.
Tone / CTCSS Many repeaters require a transmitted access tone. If the tone is wrong, you may hear the repeater perfectly but still fail to open it.
TSQL Tone squelch can make your radio require a particular tone on received signals as well. Do not enable it merely because the repeater requires a transmit access tone.
DCS / DTCS Some repeaters use a digital coded squelch value instead of CTCSS. Enter the value exactly as specified by the repeater information.

Baofeng programming cable not working? Check this first.

1. Push the cable all the way into the radio

The two K1 plugs need to be completely seated. If either plug is sitting slightly proud of the socket, the computer can recognize the USB cable while the cable still cannot communicate with the radio.

2. Check whether the computer sees a serial port

Before blaming CHIRP, confirm that connecting the cable creates a serial/COM port in the operating system. If no port appears, troubleshoot the cable or USB driver first.

3. Select the exact radio model in CHIRP

A radio looking similar to a UV-5R does not mean the UV-5R driver is correct. Use the exact manufacturer and model currently listed by CHIRP.

4. Suspect the mystery cable before installing ancient drivers

If the cable came with an old driver CD or requires hunting for obsolete drivers to make a cloned chipset behave, replacing it with a known FTDI cable can be the cleaner solution.

5. Read from the radio before uploading

Start by downloading the target radio’s current configuration. Then edit or import memories into that image. This avoids trying to treat a generic CSV or another radio’s configuration as though it were the correct native image.

6. If it programs but the repeater still doesn’t work, check the settings

Hearing a repeater does not prove your transmit settings are correct. Recheck duplex direction, offset and access tone before buying another cable or antenna.

What to avoid

The cheapest programming cable can become the most expensive in time.

I would avoid an anonymous cable whose only selling point is being a few dollars cheaper. A programming cable is an interface device, not just a piece of wire. Chipset and driver behavior matter.

I would also avoid downloading old programming software or driver packages from random file-hosting sites. Use the radio manufacturer, CHIRP or the cable manufacturer’s support page.

Finally, never assume that because two radios have a socket that looks similar, they use the same programming cable or protocol. Match the exact model first.

What about DMR, D-STAR and System Fusion?

This guide is mainly about getting ordinary analog memories and repeaters into common handhelds. Digital radios can add contacts, talkgroups, zones, digital IDs and other radio-specific configuration.

If that is what you are trying to set up, continue to our digital voice radio guide . For DMR specifically, see our DMR radios and codeplug guide .

Continue setting up your station

Ham radio programming FAQ

Why won’t CHIRP detect my Baofeng UV-5R?

First check that the programming plug is completely seated and that your computer sees the cable as a serial/COM port. Then confirm that you selected the correct port, manufacturer and exact model in CHIRP. If you are using an unknown clone cable, the cable or its chipset/driver is another likely source of trouble.

Does CHIRP work on Mac?

Current CHIRP-next supports modern macOS as well as Windows and Linux. Manufacturer software is different: for example, Yaesu’s official ADMS-10 path for the FT-70DR is Windows-based. Check the software you intend to use before choosing your programming method.

Can I program a ham radio without a programming cable?

Sometimes. Most handhelds can be programmed from their keypad, while some newer radios support direct USB or wireless programming. The TD-H3 is one example. For a long repeater list, computer programming is usually much faster than manual entry.

Can I import RepeaterBook data into CHIRP?

Yes. RepeaterBook provides data intended for programming-software workflows, and CHIRP can work with repeater data rather than forcing you to type every memory manually. Review the imported entries before sending them to the radio.

Why can I hear the repeater but not transmit through it?

The programming may be wrong even when reception sounds perfect. Verify the transmit offset, duplex direction and required CTCSS or DCS access setting. If those are correct and your signal is simply too weak, continue to our handheld antenna guide .

Can I use the same CHIRP file on a different radio?

Do not blindly upload another model’s native radio image. Read the target radio first, then import or copy the useful memories into that target-radio configuration. This preserves the correct model-specific structure and settings.

Official programming resources

Who wrote this guide?

Paul Dudley, Owner & Founder of Wholly Outdoor. Wholly Outdoor covers practical ham-radio setup as well as the radios themselves. Programming is one of the first places where a perfectly usable handheld can become frustrating, so this guide focuses on removing the common cable, software and repeater-data problems before recommending more equipment.

Licence note: You do not need equipment to take an amateur radio exam. Transmitting requires the appropriate licence and operation within the privileges that apply to you. Wholly Outdoor is not affiliated with the FCC, NCVEC, ARRL, CHIRP or RepeaterBook.